An encounter in The Far North.

Dear Georgia, 

We're finally almost at the end of our road trip! Just 4 more sleeps to go before we're all back together again in our own comfy beds. I can't wait.

We were at the top of New Zealand a few days ago. Did you see me waving to you from across the Tasman?

It's been an interesting experience, looking for a new home for us. I think we may have found a few towns you'll like, and a couple you definitely won't.

We even found an extraordinary house, just a few roads away from where we are now! I know you won't believe me but it comes with a big waterfall, a deep pool and stream, and a forest with walking tracks! 

We visited it twice in 2 days and came very close to taking that leap of faith that Cushion always talks about. What fun it would be to walk on your own bush tracks! sleep on a hammock slung between 2 trees in your own forest! and bathe in your own waterfall!

Okay, maybe that last bit won't be so much fun for you.

But if we bought that house, Georgia, you wouldn't be able to walk in that forest because it's a special protected area, and we wouldn't be allowed to have more than 2 dogs at a time. "There are some new subdivisions here where you're not allowed to have dogs or cats at all," Mr Real Estate Agent said, trying to make us feel better. Imagine that.

Yesterday, we saw a dog running around in town. It almost got knocked down crossing the street. Luckily, it was Sunday and there wasn't too much traffic about. There was no one with the dog so we knew it was a runaway or stray. We called the SPCA but it was their day off and we got a message to call another number. We called that number but no one picked up. Someone gave us the number of a friend who worked with the SPCA but she turned out to be from an SPCA in another town, and she told us to call Council. An old man who'd seen the dog told us Council would put the dog down in a week if they picked it up. "I've picked up a few dogs from the highway myself," he said. "People drive them far enough so they won't know how to get home, take off their collars and dump them." A waitress from the bar where we were having lunch, told us she'd seen the dog many times and it belonged to someone, even though it was skinny and had no collar. 

We were in a fix, Georgia, and had no idea what to do. So we packed up some chips and meat from our lunch and drove around looking for the dog. It took a while but we finally saw it! It was a new mama. She was scared, ready to run in an instant, hungry for the food in my hand. She got close enough to touch, but we had nothing to catch her with.

Suddenly, from out of nowhere, an old woman came up to us waving her walking stick and shouting, "WHAT ARE YOU DOING? YOU CAN'T FEED DOGS AND CATS HERE! THIS IS COUNCIL PROPERTY. GET OFF! HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN HERE? A FEW DAYS? A DAY? YOU'VE GOT NO RIGHT TO BE HERE! GET THAT DOG AWAY!" 

We were standing in a public space, on a nature strip by the side of a main road, and were stunned by her tirade. Her daughter came and took her away. "My mother's not well," she said.

No kidding.

Across the road, at a petrol station, we saw a man with 2 dogs in his car. A dog lover! He'll have a leash, we thought! So Cushion went to ask if we could borrow it. But the man just told us, "A Council ranger will catch the dog," got into his car, and drove off. 

We were disappointed. Sad really. There was nothing more to do, so we drove off ourselves. The last we saw of the dog, it had already crossed the road and was trotting away. 

Back at the farm where we're staying, I went to complain to Gloria, Ariel, Roxanne, Noriko, Jamie, Carly...

Nika...

and WeeWee.

"So what are you saying? You met one loony old lady and an unhelpful man and suddenly you don't like this place anymore?"

 "There are loonies and unhelpful people everywhere. You know that, right?"

Kicky, Kleksie and Fluffy came running when they saw us.

But I don't think they were interested in hearing about our encounter either.

"Did you bring food?" 

"How about a good scratch? I find a good scratch makes all my troubles go away."

It looks like we won't be buying the house with the waterfall after all, Georgia. Not today, anyway. We have a lot to think about. 

Please thank Mr O for his lovely email and photo. Did I sense a note of desperation when he mentioned your healthy appetite? I hope you're not bullying the poor man into feeding you more than you should eat. 

We'll see you on Friday, girl! Till then, be good. 

Much love, your confused and, quite frankly, exhausted humans X

P.S. Why do you always have a coat on? Are you getting fat?

Psycho night.

We're in a motel that used to be a hospital. It still smells like one. The only people we've seen, since checking in more than 6 hours ago, are the owners, and the cleaning lady who's working late. They were full over the weekend she says, but I think we may be the only earthly souls here tonight.

We had leftover curry for dinner in the kitchen.

Followed by a slice of homemade pie from under that cloche in the picture. No one else dropped by.

While we were eating, I saw an old lady walk into one of the rooms. Cushion didn't and there's been no sound or sight of her since. I'm sure I saw her. She must just be very quiet.

It's not even 8pm.

David Bowie is playing. Before him, Dean Martin.

Down the corridor, I can hear the telly in our room and Cushion coughing. From somewhere further away, a tumble dryer. There is no other sound.

I'm typing on this couch.

Wondering about the people who used to stay in these rooms and shuffle along these hallways.

 I don't want to use the D word, but I'm thinking it. 

Even the cat on the wall looks nervous.

Thoughts from Mount Doom.

Day 9 of the road trip. (3 days ago.)


"Are you sure you want to do this? I have 2 good knees and they were both in pain by the time I got down," Miki, one of the owners of the lodge where we were staying, said to me. "Some parts can be very steep and there'll be a lot of steps both going up and down. Think about it," she advised.

The shuttle bus driver who dropped us off at the start point of the Crossing was less diplomatic. "What are you doing here?" he demanded, loud enough for the whole busload of strapping teenage backpackers to hear. I couldn't decide if he was being serious. I had just told him that I'd had 2 knee surgeries and we might be a little behind schedule getting down from the mountain. Would he please wait for us if we weren't back by 4? I felt my ears go hot. I was going to be the stupid old lady holding everyone up today. Sadly, no witty retort came to mind and I was suddenly filled with doubt.

Write ups on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing describe it as a one day walk, requiring anywhere between 6 to 8 hours of steady walking. It ascends for about 800 metres, descends about 1200 metres and the highest point of the crossing is 1886 metres at Red Crater. 

We were told though, that the Crossing could be done by a fit person, without stops, in 5 to 6 hours. In the end, it took us oldies just over 7. We got to the pickup point at 3.15, hurrah for us. 

The slow pace was probably my fault. Despite my 10 years of hard core (haha) capoeira training, I had to stop often to gasp for air, still my pounding heart and ask myself what I was doing there. (To be fair to me, I was also in charge of taking pictures and there was no shortage of things to shoot.) I'm sure the ever-competitive Cushion could have completed the Crossing in less time on his own, and he'll be pleased I mentioned this.

While on the bus returning to the lodge, I read the pamphlet that Miki had passed me about the Crossing, and learnt that her husband Callum holds the world record for completing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. He ran it, in 1 hour and 25 minutes. The mind boggles. This record was set a long time ago, around 2000, 2001. No one has yet broken it. According to his website, the youngest person to have made the Crossing was 5. The oldest, 94.

Am I glad I didn't chicken out.

This crappy picture was taken on my iPhone. I will upload pictures from the camera when we get home. If you want to see more of Mordor, stay tuned!

Remember! You don't have to comment on these posts from the road! Almost 2 weeks down, 2 more to go. In Wellington now. Very pretty, too cold.